What is lapis lazuli?

Lapis lazuli, sometimes simply called lapis, with its deep blue color, is the gemstone of royalty. It has been mined in Afghanistan since 7,000 BC and has been found in many historical sites since, including the funeral mask of King Tutankhamun.

The primary mineral in lapis is lazuite, which makes up 25-40% of the composition of lapis, along with lesser amounts of calcite, sodalite and pyrite. The presence of pyrite is is significant because it provides one of the cues for distinguishing true lapis from the many imitations. You can clearly see the veins of pyrite in this piece of uncut lapis.

Although lapis has been found in very small quantities in other locales, including Siberia, the Andes, Angola and even the San Grabiel Mountains in California, the best quality lapis has been mined in Afganistan for 9,000 years and Afghanistan is remains the primary source of lapis. It takes little explanation to understand and appreciate the impact on availability and price of lapis, considering the geo-political situation in Afghanistan.

Lapis is relatively soft among gemstones at 5.5 on the Mohs scale, only slightly harder than window glass. The most prized lapis is the deeper blue, and of course, is priced accordingly. When cutting or polishing lapis, it gives off a unique odor and it is said the skilled professionals can identify the strength of the color by the strength of the odor.

Lapis has been used for making jewelry and other ornamental wear since before King Tut's time. Crushed lapis has also been used for millenia to make a royal blue paint pigment. Although its use as a paint pigment has pretty much faded, it is still commonly used in jewelry designs. Here is a piece from my collection, called Angel, with a polished lapis lazuli cabochon set in sterling silver.

Substitutes are replacing lapis when jewelry designers are seeking the deep blue effect of lapis, without pricing the jewelry beyond the affordability of the average person. As with all gemstones, there are synthetic copies. More commonly, other gemstones like sodalite or dyed howlite are substituted. Both are gemstones in their own right and offer jewelry lovers the deep blue beauty of lapis, at a more affordable price point. Here is a sample of howlite lapis set in a sterling silver necklace and matching earring set from my collection. It is almost indistinguishable from the true lapis, above.