Christmas 2013
Friday, March 7, 2014
Sunday, February 2, 2014
What is lapis lazuli?
Lapis lazuli, sometimes simply called lapis, with its deep blue color, is the gemstone of royalty. It has been mined in Afghanistan since 7,000 BC and has been found in many historical sites since, including the funeral mask of King Tutankhamun.
The primary mineral in lapis is lazuite, which makes up 25-40% of the composition of lapis, along with lesser amounts of calcite, sodalite and pyrite. The presence of pyrite is is significant because it provides one of the cues for distinguishing true lapis from the many imitations. You can clearly see the veins of pyrite in this piece of uncut lapis.
Although lapis has been found in very small quantities in other locales, including Siberia, the Andes, Angola and even the San Grabiel Mountains in California, the best quality lapis has been mined in Afganistan for 9,000 years and Afghanistan is remains the primary source of lapis. It takes little explanation to understand and appreciate the impact on availability and price of lapis, considering the geo-political situation in Afghanistan.
Lapis is relatively soft among gemstones at 5.5 on the Mohs scale, only slightly harder than window glass. The most prized lapis is the deeper blue, and of course, is priced accordingly. When cutting or polishing lapis, it gives off a unique odor and it is said the skilled professionals can identify the strength of the color by the strength of the odor.
Lapis has been used for making jewelry and other ornamental wear since before King Tut's time. Crushed lapis has also been used for millenia to make a royal blue paint pigment. Although its use as a paint pigment has pretty much faded, it is still commonly used in jewelry designs. Here is a piece from my collection, called Angel, with a polished lapis lazuli cabochon set in sterling silver.
Substitutes are replacing lapis when jewelry designers are seeking the deep blue effect of lapis, without pricing the jewelry beyond the affordability of the average person. As with all gemstones, there are synthetic copies. More commonly, other gemstones like sodalite or dyed howlite are substituted. Both are gemstones in their own right and offer jewelry lovers the deep blue beauty of lapis, at a more affordable price point. Here is a sample of howlite lapis set in a sterling silver necklace and matching earring set from my collection. It is almost indistinguishable from the true lapis, above.
Lapis is relatively soft among gemstones at 5.5 on the Mohs scale, only slightly harder than window glass. The most prized lapis is the deeper blue, and of course, is priced accordingly. When cutting or polishing lapis, it gives off a unique odor and it is said the skilled professionals can identify the strength of the color by the strength of the odor.
Lapis has been used for making jewelry and other ornamental wear since before King Tut's time. Crushed lapis has also been used for millenia to make a royal blue paint pigment. Although its use as a paint pigment has pretty much faded, it is still commonly used in jewelry designs. Here is a piece from my collection, called Angel, with a polished lapis lazuli cabochon set in sterling silver.
Substitutes are replacing lapis when jewelry designers are seeking the deep blue effect of lapis, without pricing the jewelry beyond the affordability of the average person. As with all gemstones, there are synthetic copies. More commonly, other gemstones like sodalite or dyed howlite are substituted. Both are gemstones in their own right and offer jewelry lovers the deep blue beauty of lapis, at a more affordable price point. Here is a sample of howlite lapis set in a sterling silver necklace and matching earring set from my collection. It is almost indistinguishable from the true lapis, above.
Thursday, December 26, 2013
What is Guadalupe poppy jasper?
Jaspers are part of the chalcedony/quartz family of gemstones. When a quartz crystal is made up of at least 20% "foreign material," it is referred to as a jasper. The type of foreign material dictates the color of the jasper. Guadalupe poppy jasper is thought to have originated as an iron-rich clay. Here is a piece of uncut Guadalupe poppy jasper.
Do you see the poppies? And because Guadalupe poppy jasper only comes from the Guadalupe Reservoir area of central California, it is named Guadalupe poppy jasper.
Guadalupe poppy jasper is exceptionally rare. First, as noted above, it has only been found in one location, in California. Second, that location is on private property and has not been mined since the 1940's! As the remaining uncut material from the 1940's is cut and sold, the price just escalates as the raw gemstones becomes scarcer and scarcer.
Like most jaspers, Guadalupe poppy jasper is relatively hard, at 6.5-7.0 on the Mohs scale. Because it is so hard, Guadalupe poppy jasper is a very durable gemstone for jewelry. Here, from my Signature Collection, is an example of a beautifuil polished piece of Guadalupe poppy jasper that I have set into a one-of-a-kind sterling silver necklace with a red garnet accent.
Jasper is said to have numerous healing and holistic properties. It is said to inspire a positive and creative attitude, and to awaken sleeping parts of the body. In older times, it was thought to ward off evil spirits and protect one from snake and spider bites. In both ancient European and Native American cultures, it is thought to bring rain.
Guadalupe poppy jasper is exceptionally rare. First, as noted above, it has only been found in one location, in California. Second, that location is on private property and has not been mined since the 1940's! As the remaining uncut material from the 1940's is cut and sold, the price just escalates as the raw gemstones becomes scarcer and scarcer.
Like most jaspers, Guadalupe poppy jasper is relatively hard, at 6.5-7.0 on the Mohs scale. Because it is so hard, Guadalupe poppy jasper is a very durable gemstone for jewelry. Here, from my Signature Collection, is an example of a beautifuil polished piece of Guadalupe poppy jasper that I have set into a one-of-a-kind sterling silver necklace with a red garnet accent.
Sunday, December 15, 2013
What is Mookaite jasper?
Mookaite jasper, also known as mookite, mookalite, moakite and moukaite, comes exclusively from mines in Western Australian. It is so named because it comes from the Mooka Creek area of Australia. Technically, Mookaite jasper is a Windalia Radiolarite (sedimentary rock) whose silification is opaline to chalcedonic, but all you need to remember is that it is a beautiful gemstone that comes in red, purple, tan, white, ivory and pink. Here is a sample in its natural form.
Mookaite jasper is said to have a beneficial energy vibration that slows the aging process, and similarly is said to be helpful in healing when placed under the pillow. Some advocate use of Mookaite jasper to stimulate intuitive abilities. I just love the gemstone because of its rarity and beautiful colors. Here are some earrings that I designed using sterling silver and red Mookaite jasper cabochons, from my collection.
Mookaite jasper is a part of the quartz/chalcedony family, and is a relatively hard gemstone ranging between 6.5-7.0 on the Mohs scale, about the same as quart and tourmaline. Its relative hardness makes it excellent for durable jewelry and less susceptible to scratching by everyday wear.
Rarely, raw Mookaite jasper will contain dendrites, a branching figure or marking resembling moss or a shrub, due to the presence of a foreign material. Here is a beautiful example of a polished Mookaite cabochon from Topgems containing a dendrite tree. Because of the rarity, even small stones like this can sell for 100's of dollars.
Mookaite jasper is said to have a beneficial energy vibration that slows the aging process, and similarly is said to be helpful in healing when placed under the pillow. Some advocate use of Mookaite jasper to stimulate intuitive abilities. I just love the gemstone because of its rarity and beautiful colors. Here are some earrings that I designed using sterling silver and red Mookaite jasper cabochons, from my collection.
Rarely, raw Mookaite jasper will contain dendrites, a branching figure or marking resembling moss or a shrub, due to the presence of a foreign material. Here is a beautiful example of a polished Mookaite cabochon from Topgems containing a dendrite tree. Because of the rarity, even small stones like this can sell for 100's of dollars.
Sunday, November 24, 2013
What is turquoise?
Turquoise is a beautiful blue-green gemstone found throughout the world. It has been actively mined and used for jewelry since at least 3,000 BCE. Because turquoise is comprised at least in part of copper, it is often found in the vicinity of copper mines and copper deposits. Some of the best quality turquoise has been mined in Iran since the very earliest of times. Here is a sample of uncut turquoise as found in Arizona.
In the United States, turquoise is most commonly found in the southwest, although deposits have been found in other states including Virginia. Most of the known turquoise deposits in the west have been depleted and only a few active mines remain.
American turquoise is generally considered to be of a lesser quality than much of the turquoise found in Iran and other parts of the world (and priced accordingly). In fact, most American turquoise is considered "low grade" and is commonly referred to as "chalk turquoise." Almost all of the turquoise jewelry sold in the American southwest, is made from chalk turquoise (or some form of imitation turquoise; see below). Even though most American deposits are poor grade turquoise, some high grade deposits are still being found in Nevada.
Turquoise is a relatively soft gemstone. On the Mohs scale, it rates only a 5-6, only slightly harder than ordinary window glass and substantially less than quartz (7) or diamonds (10). In part due to its softness, and in part due to its chemical composition, turquoise is very susceptible to damage. It is common for the turquoise miner/producer to stabilize the turquoise by high pressure injection of epoxy or polystyrene to improve its durability. Although not commonly done outside of the American southwest, most American turquoise is also "backed" meaning that an epoxy steel backing has been applied to the turquoise to help prevent it from cracking. Light oiling or waxing of the turquoise is also common to improve its luster, although purists may object to any kind of treatment. Neither stabilization or backing decrease the value of turquoise, but both do improve its durability and practicality in fine jewelry. Here is an example of stabilized, backed American turquoise set in sterling silver in a delicate, organically themed piece from my collection.
In contrast to the above, when I designed and made these post backed sterling silver earrings, I wanted a less elegant and less refined look to the pieces, so I used turquoise that had not been stabilized, oiled or waxed and you can actually see the natural fissures in the gemstones.
As with anything of value that is subject to scarcity, there are those who will try to make an inexpensive product look like something that is rare and expensive, and sell it to an unsuspecting buyer. That is also true of turquoise. Among the many turquoise imitations passed off as true turquoise, are dyed magnesite, howlite, chalcedony and even common marble. More recently, technology has allowed the creation of many kinds of imitation turquoise, including Viennese turquoise and Gilson turquoise. Without extensive experience, education and testing tools, most of us are not able to distinguish most of these imitation products from the genuine product and sometimes even the experts are fooled. To try to protect myself from inadvertently buying imitation products, I always try to buy from known, established sources. At least once each year, I travel to the mining districts in Nevada and purchase gemstones directly from the sources. (Sadly, bead shows and some "household name" auction and online sites, have the largest percentage of purveyors of undisclosed, imitation gemstones.)
Below is a sample of imitation turquoise (dyed howlite), before cutting and polishing. As you can see, it has the coloration and veining that you would expect from genuine turquoise. Only a professional could tell the difference.
As with most natural products including gemstones, care must be taken to protect and preserve the beauty of the gemstones. Perfume, cosmetics, skin oils, commercial cleaning fluids, sunscreen and hair spray will all damage turquoise. Additionally, prolonged exposure to the sun will dehydrate the turquoise and cause discoloration. "Sonic" cleaners should not be used to clean any gemstone that is subject to fracture.
American turquoise is generally considered to be of a lesser quality than much of the turquoise found in Iran and other parts of the world (and priced accordingly). In fact, most American turquoise is considered "low grade" and is commonly referred to as "chalk turquoise." Almost all of the turquoise jewelry sold in the American southwest, is made from chalk turquoise (or some form of imitation turquoise; see below). Even though most American deposits are poor grade turquoise, some high grade deposits are still being found in Nevada.
Turquoise is a relatively soft gemstone. On the Mohs scale, it rates only a 5-6, only slightly harder than ordinary window glass and substantially less than quartz (7) or diamonds (10). In part due to its softness, and in part due to its chemical composition, turquoise is very susceptible to damage. It is common for the turquoise miner/producer to stabilize the turquoise by high pressure injection of epoxy or polystyrene to improve its durability. Although not commonly done outside of the American southwest, most American turquoise is also "backed" meaning that an epoxy steel backing has been applied to the turquoise to help prevent it from cracking. Light oiling or waxing of the turquoise is also common to improve its luster, although purists may object to any kind of treatment. Neither stabilization or backing decrease the value of turquoise, but both do improve its durability and practicality in fine jewelry. Here is an example of stabilized, backed American turquoise set in sterling silver in a delicate, organically themed piece from my collection.
As with anything of value that is subject to scarcity, there are those who will try to make an inexpensive product look like something that is rare and expensive, and sell it to an unsuspecting buyer. That is also true of turquoise. Among the many turquoise imitations passed off as true turquoise, are dyed magnesite, howlite, chalcedony and even common marble. More recently, technology has allowed the creation of many kinds of imitation turquoise, including Viennese turquoise and Gilson turquoise. Without extensive experience, education and testing tools, most of us are not able to distinguish most of these imitation products from the genuine product and sometimes even the experts are fooled. To try to protect myself from inadvertently buying imitation products, I always try to buy from known, established sources. At least once each year, I travel to the mining districts in Nevada and purchase gemstones directly from the sources. (Sadly, bead shows and some "household name" auction and online sites, have the largest percentage of purveyors of undisclosed, imitation gemstones.)
Below is a sample of imitation turquoise (dyed howlite), before cutting and polishing. As you can see, it has the coloration and veining that you would expect from genuine turquoise. Only a professional could tell the difference.
Friday, November 22, 2013
What is sterling silver?
Pure silver, that brilliantly shiny metal, has been used by mankind for thousands of years to make body ornaments and mirrors. However, pure silver is is too soft to use to make most functional objects, so other metals are added to make pure silver stronger. Sterling silver is the result of adding other metals to pure silver to achieve an alloy commonly known as sterling silver. To be "sterling" silver, the alloy must contain 92.5% pure silver, also commonly written as .925 silver. Most commonly, copper is added to pure silver,but other metals that can be added include germanium, zinc and platinum.
Here are examples of pure silver (.999%) silver bars.
It is believed that sterling silver was first developed in the current area of Germany, in the 12th century. During the 13th century in UK, some of the earliest "standards" were set establishing the minimum silver content for sterling silver at 91.5-92.5% silver. In colonial America, sterling silver was used as coinage. In addition, silversmiths made practical products with sterling silver, like tea sets and flatware. Because there was little regulation of the industry, buyers relied upon the reputation of the seller to provide the buyer with an honest 92.5% silver product, and the "hallmark" of the seller, with his/her reputation and integrity standing behind it. Of course, one of colonial America's most famous silversmiths was Paul Revere.
Today, sterling silver is still used in the fabrication of flatware, ornamental housewares and commonly, jewelry.
Sterling silver necklace, Autumn Leaves, from my collection.
If you have owned sterling silver, you know that it tarnishes. Pure silver does not chemically react to oxygen or water, but does react to atmospheric pollution, sulfur compounds and ozone. By adding alloys, the tendency of silver to tarnish increases and depending on one's tastes, may require frequently cleaning and polishing. Keeping sterling silver away from air pollution and airborne chemical compounds, is one of the easiest ways to help avoid having it tarnish. There are also products that can be bought that help inhibit tarnish including a relatively new product offered by 3M commonly called anti-tarnish strips. By keeping sterling silver (including jewelry) in a container that protects it from atmospheric pollution (even a closed jewelry box helps; I use small jewelry-sized plastic baggies) along with anti tarnish strips, one can significantly minimize tarnish that might develop. Here is a picture of the 3M anti tarnish strip (1" squares and 1" x 6" strips).
The anti tarnish strips that I include with my sales, are bought on Amazon, but I'm sure there are other places where you can purchase them. A cautionary note: 100 of the small (1" square pieces) shown in the photo, is about 1/2" thick and weighs less than an ounce. Don't pay an online seller a large "shipping" fee to stick 100 squares into a first class envelope with $.44 postage on it!
Argentium (a trade name) is a relatively new form of sterling silver wherein pure silver is alloyed with germanium. The Argentium marketing suggests that because germanium is used as the hardening alloy, and not copper, the Argentium sterling silver is less susceptible to tarnishing. Currently, the wholesale price of Argentium is about 20% higher than sterling silver, even though the silver content of Argentium is still 92.5%. In addition to Argentium, other manufacturers are developing and marketing proprietary alloys of sterling silver, said to inhibit tarnish and firescale (the red or purple stain that sometimes appears on sterling silver). I suspect that with new entrants into the proprietary alloy market, that the price differential between sterling silver and the proprietary alloys will drop.
Here are examples of pure silver (.999%) silver bars.
It is believed that sterling silver was first developed in the current area of Germany, in the 12th century. During the 13th century in UK, some of the earliest "standards" were set establishing the minimum silver content for sterling silver at 91.5-92.5% silver. In colonial America, sterling silver was used as coinage. In addition, silversmiths made practical products with sterling silver, like tea sets and flatware. Because there was little regulation of the industry, buyers relied upon the reputation of the seller to provide the buyer with an honest 92.5% silver product, and the "hallmark" of the seller, with his/her reputation and integrity standing behind it. Of course, one of colonial America's most famous silversmiths was Paul Revere.
Today, sterling silver is still used in the fabrication of flatware, ornamental housewares and commonly, jewelry.
Sterling silver necklace, Autumn Leaves, from my collection.
If you have owned sterling silver, you know that it tarnishes. Pure silver does not chemically react to oxygen or water, but does react to atmospheric pollution, sulfur compounds and ozone. By adding alloys, the tendency of silver to tarnish increases and depending on one's tastes, may require frequently cleaning and polishing. Keeping sterling silver away from air pollution and airborne chemical compounds, is one of the easiest ways to help avoid having it tarnish. There are also products that can be bought that help inhibit tarnish including a relatively new product offered by 3M commonly called anti-tarnish strips. By keeping sterling silver (including jewelry) in a container that protects it from atmospheric pollution (even a closed jewelry box helps; I use small jewelry-sized plastic baggies) along with anti tarnish strips, one can significantly minimize tarnish that might develop. Here is a picture of the 3M anti tarnish strip (1" squares and 1" x 6" strips).
The anti tarnish strips that I include with my sales, are bought on Amazon, but I'm sure there are other places where you can purchase them. A cautionary note: 100 of the small (1" square pieces) shown in the photo, is about 1/2" thick and weighs less than an ounce. Don't pay an online seller a large "shipping" fee to stick 100 squares into a first class envelope with $.44 postage on it!
Argentium (a trade name) is a relatively new form of sterling silver wherein pure silver is alloyed with germanium. The Argentium marketing suggests that because germanium is used as the hardening alloy, and not copper, the Argentium sterling silver is less susceptible to tarnishing. Currently, the wholesale price of Argentium is about 20% higher than sterling silver, even though the silver content of Argentium is still 92.5%. In addition to Argentium, other manufacturers are developing and marketing proprietary alloys of sterling silver, said to inhibit tarnish and firescale (the red or purple stain that sometimes appears on sterling silver). I suspect that with new entrants into the proprietary alloy market, that the price differential between sterling silver and the proprietary alloys will drop.
Welcome to my new blog!
Welcome to my new blog! Although there are tens of thousands of sources of information on the internet for art, jewelry and jewelry lovers, few sites are devoted to all three and I want to try to fill that need as well as share my love for art and what goes into my "Wearable Art" designs. I hope to provide timely, informative blog posts, and hope that you the readers will share your thoughts and contributions.
If you have questions or comments about the blog or my articles, please join the discussion! Because there is enough negativity, drama and theatrics already in the world, I don't intend to add to it and intend to moderate the comments so that this blog is (hopefully) free of negativity, drama and theatrics, but I love jewelry and would like to have other jewelry lovers share their experiences.
Again, Welcome and thank you for reading!
Qian Fang
Qian Fang Art Jewelry
"Wearable Art"
www.etsy.com/shop/qianfangartjewelry
If you have questions or comments about the blog or my articles, please join the discussion! Because there is enough negativity, drama and theatrics already in the world, I don't intend to add to it and intend to moderate the comments so that this blog is (hopefully) free of negativity, drama and theatrics, but I love jewelry and would like to have other jewelry lovers share their experiences.
Again, Welcome and thank you for reading!
Qian Fang
Qian Fang Art Jewelry
"Wearable Art"
www.etsy.com/shop/qianfangartjewelry
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